The Cheesemonger

By Eric Steinman, Photography by Jake Chessum

Saxelby is obsessed with American cheese: After learning the finer points of cheesemaking in Europe and a stint at Manhattan's revered Murray's Cheese Shop, she opened her own little store devoted to American artisanal cheeses. With domestic varieties now rivaling the best of Europe's in taste and quality, we wanted to know what Saxelby had to say about this truly American product and how to make the most of it this season.

How do American cheeses differ from European cheeses?

Because of their long history, European cheesemakers are bound by the cheesemaking style of their region. American cheesemakers have more creative license. For example, Woodcock Farm's Timberdoodle is made from pure cow's milk in the winter, then from a blend of sheep's and cow's milk in the summer.

What should one look for when shopping for cheese?

With softer cheeses like Brie, if the rind smells like ammonia and the cheese is too gooey and spicy-tasting, it's been around too long. Ideally, you want to make sure the rind looks healthy. Avoid cheese with brown or yellowish discoloration. These are signs that a cheese is overripe.

How should cheese be stored?

First and foremost: no plastic touching the cheese. I keep my cheese wrapped in waxed paper and, oftentimes, a layer of heavier butcher paper. Then I put it in a resealable plastic bag in the refrigerator.

What are the guiding rules of assembling a cheese plate?

I prefer to serve between three and five cheeses that build in intensity: a fresh cheese, like chèvre; a creamy, Camembert-style cheese; an earthy, natural-rind, firm aged cheese; a stinky, washed-rind cheese; and a blue.